Château Moya

Taste how good organic can be — the maison’s line, and a fair brief for this Castillon.

Château Moya 2016 is the organic red from Côtes de Castillon, the Right Bank appellation pressed against Saint-Émilion and named for the battle that ended the Hundred Years’ War. The slope gets the sun. The microclimate is the reason Castillon became fashionable. Moya is estate-grown on that fashion, then bottled at the château so the name on the label is the name of the cellar.

Organic here is not a sticker added at the importer. The grapes are organically grown. Music is played to the vines at dawn and dusk — Genodics — because the estate wants plumper fruit and less fungus, not because it photographs well, though it does. The bottle in the moss, gold capsule, white label, “2016,” is the one.

Thirty-nine dollars. A case of twelve ships free. If you are building a Bordeaux shelf that is not only classified growths and grocery Merlot, Moya is the middle rung that actually comes from somewhere.